FEELING FES-TIVE
We had heard good things about Fes, the first city of Morocco, so we organised to leave the boat in the Marina of Rabat and jumped on a train to Fes. We thought we would throw caution to the wind and secure “1st Classé” tickets – which were only 120 Dirhams ($AU15) – to avoid sitting next to a chicken or goat. We were delighted to find that we were allocated in a 6 seater cabin with 2 other women… Who gossiped like two old hens the whole trip which had us wishing for the goat scenario after all. At least they came up for air every 3 hours. We obviously have no idea who or what they were talking about but the Arabic dialect made it sound pretty exciting.
The dramatic scenery made for an interesting journey, with some parts reminiscent of the rolling hills of Tuscany dotted with grape vines and olive tree plantations – others; more like the slums of Bangladesh. Or Hamilton South. The train system was top notch, much better than our ShittyRail back home, with the conductors being vinegar-stroke punctual on their tight schedule – something more foreign to us Aussies than drinking warm beer. At least that’s one thing we didn’t have to worry about in Morocco… ‘cos there is no beer!
We pulled into the modern station of Fes, phoned our accommodation hosts to instruct our taxi driver on where to take us and made our way to the ancient medina. Our host met us in the square (because cars can’t access the narrow streets of the medina) and led us through the maze of winding alleyways to our riad. There were a few blank looks as we approached the unassuming entry door… until we walked in. Behind the stucco walls was a STUNNING abode, fit for a king. And his Kez. The centre courtyard was surrounded by four storeys of intricately carved woodwork, stained glass windows and mosaic tiled floors and walls so detailed it almost brought on an epileptic seizure. We were welcomed with some mint tea (an addictive Moroccan staple) and homemade pastries as we went through the formalities and shown to our rooms. You could hear the “oohs” and “ahhs” echo throughout the building as we explored our new quarters – complete with 20foot ceilings, mezzanine bathroom, French windows overlooking the courtyard and plunge pool, hand-carved orange blossom soap, vials of pure Argan oil and lavender creams. It also had a rooftop terrace that showcased a spectacular view of the ancient city. A few sneaky beers and vinos managed to make their way up there too so we thought it would be rude not to enjoy them whilst watching the sun set over the plethora of satellite dishes.
The medina was a treasure trove of artisan stores selling incredible ceramics, jewels, leather goods, kaftans, spices and freshly severed goats heads. We had some fantastic local meals, couscous being a highlight, as well as the tagines, aubergine salads and other “stuff” we have no clue what was in it or what they call it but it all tasted so delicious and fresh.
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